Why is he only known as the "mountain climber"?
“Reinhold Messner is probably the most famous and most commercially valuable climber in the world. Everything about him is so well known. When you look at those stories, there is a total question. Will come out stubbornly: There are so many skilled climbers in the world. Why was he only honored as the "mountain climber?"
After climbing 14 8,000+, the highest peak of the seven continents on the summit, Mount Everest at the anaerobic station, walking north and south poles, crossing the Gobi Desert... These past are enough to shine. But the rest is not the only except for the summit of Nanga Parbat along the route of the pleple.
This is a classic selfie in the history of mountaineering. On August 9, 1978, Messner returned to Nanga Parbat and solo to the summit.
Certainly there is something that is the exclusive imprint of potential Messner, making him a "legend" in people's mouth.
The most difficult climb is not Everest anaerobic
On October 16, 1986, at 1:45 pm, Messner and partner Hans Kammerlander climbed Lhotse (8516 meters) and became the first to complete all 14 8,000 meters. Snow peak people.
Messner climbs to the top of Lhotse. Picture source: "All Fourteen 8,000ers"
For Messner, 14 seats are temporary end points, but they are the starting point for many people to worship him. The glory that this person can't match, in his opinion, will come true.
I would like to be remembered as a mountain climber with the highest number of failures on the 8000-meter peak. Eighteen times, it was Messner's quantitative data of 14 climbs. Among them, the two methods of climbing Mount Everest were extremely bright and special: anaerobic in 1978; solo in 1980.
Messner main climbing schedule
1966-Yerupaja Chico (first board)
1970 - Nanga Parbat
1974 - North Wall, Aigues
1975-Gashulbura I peak
1978 - Everest (Analysis First Pass)
1978 - Nanga Parbat, Solo
1979-K2
1980 - Everest, Solo
1981-Shishabonma
1982 - Gancheng Zhangjia
1982-Gashulubruma II
1982 - Bunothaat
1983 - Zhuo Youyou
1984-Gashuul Blumwood I, II (Crossing)
1985 - Annapurna
1986- Makalu
1986 - Lhotse
However, all things in the world are often wonderful. The precious things in others' eyes do not necessarily engrave the deepest textures in their hearts. Therefore, these two "impossible missions" failed to qualify for Messner's "most difficult climb."
Heiligkreuzkofel, who is in Messner’s hometown, was the hardest climb in his memory.
The hardest part of his memory was in his hometown, a mountain that was only 2,970 meters above sea level. At that time, his brother Günther Messner had not yet died:
The pillar in the middle of Heiligkreuzkofel is a wall about 600 meters high. I was 23 years old and my brother Gunther was 21 years old. The climb, the forced mountain conditions, allowed us to hang and rest and slept. There wasn't a hole in the wall that could hit the cone of ice. There was nothing. I think I was trapped. Underneath me is the abyss. (Source: "The Messner Mountain Museum: where man meets mountain" published by http://telegraph.co.uk) Of course, eventually the Messner brothers did it and they were questioned after they returned. In the following 10 years, the world’s evaluation of the climb overreported that “it was a lieâ€. Until some day, someone found the ice cone he left on the same climbing road.
Similar situations took place in 1970. The difference was that this time it took 30 years for the truth to be revealed.
In 2005, Gunther's relics were found.
In June of that year, the brothers reached the summit of Rupal Face in Nanga Parbat. However, they encountered an unexpected accident when they descended: Gunther's physical overdraft couldn't make it into the line, and the choice of the diversion route was wrong. A sudden avalanche of ...
Messner (left) and his brother Gunther.
Many years later, Messner explained to the world through his film Nanga Parbat the worst part of his life. Those experiences are indeed beyond words.
Quilt? What about my quilt? We have no quilt. Can't move, we will die! Listen, Gunther, we will not die. Will die. Really not! (When the dialogue was down for two people, Gunther suffered a serious overdraft and lost consciousness in the middle of the journey. Source: The film “Nanjia Parbat.â€) Endings Everyone knows that only Messner returned alone. Seven toes were clipped. However, the turmoil of the question made him completely panic.
Before 1970, my life was aimed at mountaineering. My ambition was not to use technical equipment as much as possible and to surpass all physical limits. However, the death of my younger brother gave me a huge shock. How tight is the connection between mountaineering and death. I never thought about this seriously. (Source: Messner's Autobiography “14 8000m†Episode 2: Heaven, Hell and the Himalayas) From Gunsling’s humble equipment relics, the climb was quite difficult.
After Gunther's death, Messner suffered a full year of self-blame, his father's resentment and the outside world's jealousy, and realized the life and death of the climber:
Compared with the summit, living back is the most important thing.
Reluctant climbing philosophy from the heart
Messner at the age of 23 did two big things--
One of the most difficult climbs in life was described above.
The other was the release of a blockbuster to the mountaineering community at the time and the publication of an article titled "Impossible Murder" strongly criticized the way some "collaborators" continued to rely on expansion screws to climb. ,
At any time, Messner is lightly loaded.
He openly censured the "siege tactics" that allowed lame mountain climbers to anchor an anchor and conquer the mountains, both for the defense of the mountains and for the climbers, saying that they were defrauded to the test. Opportunity for the limits of courage and skill. This article, now recognized as a small classic, is titled "The Impossible Murder", claiming that users of expansion anchors and camp nails "don't care to kill the impossible ideal." (Source: "Crush everything is impossible - the legend of Messner" published in the China Geography magazine) Detailed Messner's all climb, almost never used to score an expansion anchor on the rock wall . In 1978, he even disregarded the traditional concept of the 8,000-meter restricted area, and made the epic return to the summit of Everest without oxygen.
The anaerobic summit of Mount Messner. For such an approach, many people interpret it as "climbers dare to challenge and keep exploring" but this is not enough. All of this, perhaps from his somewhat deviant climbing concept:
I don’t mean to be in the mountains, I’m only interested in people’s experience—I’m not a naturalist.
What I am interested in is what happened to people... (Source: "Crush everything is impossible - the legend of Messner" is published in China Geographic Magazine) Compared with Mallory's "because the mountain is there" The motive force that drives Messner’s mountaineering is only the care of the individual’s heart. He is obsessed with the process and the spiritual enrichment that may be obtained.
Messner, at the age of 33, was quite concise.
In this way, it is not difficult to understand that the minimalist Alpha climbing that he has promoted hardly requires the idea of ​​relying solely on one’s own strength to reach the end.
I hope to solve the climbing problem in the mountains instead of in the equipment store. Messner likes to excuse people in public. He only responds as soon as he hears a query.
Messner not only likes to marry himself, but also like to marry someone. For his old partner Hans, he is the best in the world in the field of Ascension, but he also has weaknesses, that is, he refuses to accept criticism.
He proudly told me about the encounter with an enemy in his hometown: "I was so angry that I couldn't do it. I just squawked like that and the window glass trembled." (Source: "Crush everything is impossible - Metz." The story of Narratives published in the China Geography Journal. This way of talking with the outside world made Messner's rotten temper widely known. However, he did not seem to care, but he was always surprised in the major European media.
Messner returns to nature and his expression is always relaxed and pleasant.
No religion can tell me what to do, or what must be done. Only pure nature should maintain awe. (Source: "Murdering the Impossible", Author: Caroline Alexander) Looking back, climbing to Messner, more like a stick of inner love and care. What he really cares about is always the person himself.
At the time of the stop, he turned to meet the mountains with nostalgia, and the major events were among them.
For Messner, climbing taught him three things: facing life and death, taking care of his heart, and willingness to let go.
Today's Messner has been away from the mountaineering circle but has not left the mountain. The picture shows a climbing museum designed by him.
If you can still meet 73-year-old Messner, instead of expecting an encounter on the way to the mountain, why not go to his hometown of South Tyrol and stroll through the museums that are located at high altitudes? There is a surprise at the corner.
Castel Firmian is the fifth climbing museum established by Messner and is the largest one.
Some people may be surprised at Messner's turn on the climb, but as early as the 14th finish, he knew where to go.
When it will complete 14 8,000-meter climbs, I am naturally very happy because I finally got to be freed from the burden I imposed on myself, and I already had other plans. If you spend two days with him, you will find that he is now a little softer and not as good. Now he, life has become very simple: living with his wife and children in a 13th-century Italian castle, no longer keen to show his face, raised a few yak around.
Several yaks became his exclusive pets.
Why is the "Mountaineer" only Messner?
Those kinds of glory that are obtained through mountaineering are certainly grounds, but not all. More than that, it must be his control of life. After all, only when a person knows what he wants to do can he discern the way in front of him, and he will only know how to let go.
The so-called legend, it is probably not so mysterious, but it is honest to be yourself, unbiased, not humble. Just like Messner did, only one thing was actually done:
Move from the heart and go with the sex. Perhaps the life style of a person so relaxed is the highlight of Messner's truly memorable attitude.
Therefore, my dear Hill Friends, I look forward to your every departure, to follow the heart of love, not to other turmoil, do their own life "the emperor."
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