Sources: How to Climb Series Books and Networks Disclaimer: I am not a historian and I am not capable of judging the true or false of these historical materials. I can only gather information as far as possible.
I hope people who are interested can refer to it.
The earliest climbers were ancient humans who climbed the rock wall in order to escape predators or enemies.
The earliest human climb record was in 1492 when King Charles Charles of France ordered Dompjulian de Beaupre, Captain of Montelimar, to climb a limestone tower named Inaccessible, which was 1000 feet high with simple hooks and ladders. Success was achieved through experience and skill, and the mountain was later named Mt. Aiguille, becoming the first recorded and used equipment to climb rock, hundreds of years earlier than later mountaineering.
Http://
Hundreds of years later; humans did not leave new records of climbing.
In the middle of the 17th century, with the desire of humans to conquer the mountains, people began to climb high mountains, and the summit was the ultimate goal. Glacial terrain and snow were the biggest challenges faced by these earliest climbers. They covered the Alps.
In 1850, climbers have developed some simple climbing tools to help them pass through rock walls or glaciers. Examples include clawed shoes, modified axes or wooden axes, which are the predecessors of modern crampons or ice axes. At the time, the rope was heavy and unable to bear the weight of the human body, so early climbers used human hands to pass through the glaciers or use the "ladder" to pass through the rock steps. Europeans, Edward Whymper, used hooks to attach cords; they were used to hook the edges of the rock to help them climb.
In the Alps, other people try to use their own body to climb the mountains. In 1878 Georg Winkler did not use any tools to successfully climb the west of the Vajolet Tower, which is what he now calls the “Free solo†climb. Georg Winkler died at the age of 18. Before he died, he tried to climb the Weisshorn, a mountain that once caused many climbers to climb artificially and still failed. Although Georg Winkler used hooks and his shoes were improved, he was still the ancestor of free climbing.
In 1893, Wyoming ranchers, Willard Ripley, and William Rogers spent three weeks using mechanical ladders and wooden spikes to successfully climb the crevices of the famous Devils Tower to celebrate the Independence Day.
However, like the Dompjulians's climbing record of 1492, these activities are mostly single events, and not many people play a role in this. Although in 1898 the Americans used rough technical and security measures for the first time in climbing the Grand Teton, the real climbing technique still originated in Europe.
Pitons were invented during this period (nineteenth century) and were originally used to facilitate descent; not ascent. However, when people gradually look at the rock walls that have not yet been successfully climbed, they find that the techniques used in the past are insufficient to protect the safety of the climbers. Later, hemp rope was also invented.
In 1907 the Italian guide Tita Piaz combined a rough free climbing technique with a complex rope/bolts technique to successfully climb the 1200-mile Torre Piaz south wall (in the Dolomites). In the same year, he led the team to the western wall of Totenkirchl. It still seems to be a difficult route. Tita Piaz pioneered a new era of free climbing, no longer relying on techniques that used equipment to climb.
With the highest peak Mt. Aiguille and other major peaks conquered one after another, the climbers no longer satisfied with the traditional simple route. They found that if they were to conquer some of the hills that had not been climbed yet, or With some new routes, they must be equipped with climbing skills. Therefore; people began to challenge some of the more difficult terrain to conquer the mountain peaks, in order to be able to overcome some of the steep rock formations, they began to practice in some relatively short cliffs on the hill. At this time, the climbers have developed a simple technology to ensure that rock climbing activities have been invented in continental Europe and the United Kingdom, but have not yet spread to other areas.
In 1910 the German Otto Herzog used industrial surpluses to invent the pear-shaped shackle "karabiner". Hans Fiechtl invented the modern pitons (with holes and gongs). Hans Dulfer invented a kind of use of two shackles. We make sure technique of crossing, and firmer securing point.
The climbing technique at this time is combined with some "free climbing" and some "artificial climbing."
In 1910, Austria invented the descent of the rope. At that time, it used iron shackles and rock nails to pass the rope through the shackles and pinnacles....
At this time, some new technical equipment and self-confidence enhancements have made it difficult for Austrian and German rock climbers to climb to an unprecedented level. During this period, the most important limitation that people have to challenge some undeserved peaks is that they come from Insufficient equipment, such as: rope is still very easy to use broken rope, climbing shoes easily worn out.
Paul Preuss is a person with considerable influence on rock climbing. He was the first person who put forward the term "artificial aid." He advocated that people should not climb the route he could not climb with his hands. Pitons can only be used in emergency situations. Paul Preuss has climbed many routes and died at the age of 27 in 1913 when he attempted to climb the northern side of Manndlkogen alone. The six rules he proposed had a profound effect on the subsequent free climbing.
The six rules of Preuss:
At the same time, in the United Kingdom before the First World War, the rock walls near some cities were successively developed. However, the British style of climbing was less aggressive than that of Germany, and British rock climbers also discouraged the use of rock walls. Pinnacles, on the one hand, are due to moral issues. On the other hand, conglomerates are also relatively fragile. However, due to the lack of high mountains in the UK, the United Kingdom has developed a completely different style of climbing compared to continental Europe, and it is also relatively close to the movement pattern. At this time, the development of this activity in the United States is still following the footsteps of Europe. It was not until about 1920 that there was a rope climbing into the United States.
In the golden age of the Alpine climb in 1930, some of the peaks of the Alps, the Americas, and Asia were successively conquered. Although we are still mainly focused on the accomplishments of these summits, climbing is quietly at this time. The world spreads.
A brief history of Yosemite rock climbing development
John Muir (1838-1914)
John Muir was Yosemite's number one climber. He was away from the crowd and climbing on his own. In his lifetime, he climbed almost all over Yosemite Canyon and was known by his descendants as the father of Josemite. In addition to being an explorer and mountaineer, John Muir is most admired for his life's commitment to protecting the Hetch Hetchy Valley in Yosemite National Park from being destroyed, and John Muir using completely different ropes and equipment to freehand. Climbing and protecting the original features of Yosemite Valley as much as possible made it impossible for future generations to find traces of climbing left by him.
In 1869 John Muir was the first to climb the Cathedral Peak (10, 940 ft) in Solo.
In the same year, James Hutchings tried to climb the Half Dome but found that it might be necessary to use tools to assist.
In 1871 John Conway tried to climb the Half Dome.
George Anderson, a Scottish railway builder in 1875, used an eyebolt (bolt with holes) for the construction of the railway to knock out the handle points and footholds with tweezers in the eastern half of the Half Dome, and bolted into the bolts in difficult places. , And then use the rope to connect the eyebolts, so that he can climb up and down, this time spent climbing for several days, and finally successfully climbed on (Half Dome Half Dome), becoming the first in history A climber standing on the Half Dome.
In 1931, the actual spiritual leader of the Sierra Club, Francis P. Farquhar, invited world-renowned British mountaineer Robert L. M Underhill to teach basic climbing techniques. He was the first person to introduce European climbing techniques into the United States. Completely changed the United States climbing form, but also laid the foundation for Yosemite climbing. He taught the belay, Rappel, and Aid techniques to other members of the Sierra Club at the time, including Dick Leonard, Bestor Robinson, and Jules Eichorn. Before this, climbing Yosemite is mostly a route that is not too big and can only be done with bare hands.
Http://
Http://
1932 Dick Leonard and others founded the rock climbing department of the Sierra Club.
On April 15th, 1934, Dick Leonard, Bestor Robinson, and Jules Eichorn used the technique of Piton for the first time to climb a higher tower in the Yosemite Gorge. They had tried eight times to complete the climb. Cathedral Spire's feat, this climb set a new milestone in the Yosemite climb, because the route they challenged was not only beyond their ability but also beyond the level of their ability to climb at that time, so even if they climbed halfway and shouted for help, At that time, no one else was capable of rescue. Since then, people have begun to challenge higher-impact routes instead of taking time to climb, but to strengthen the techniques of training ropes and climbing physical strength.
Dick Leonard, Bestor Robinson, Jules Eichorn They first took part in the Sierra Club and learned the rope technology from Europe, but they soon discovered that the European technology is not yet mature; it is dangerous and not suitable for them. Climbing form. So they invented the hip belay technology, which is relatively stable because it is closer to the body's center of gravity. In addition, they have also developed a dynamic technology to ensure that when the climber falls, it is ensured that the ropes are gradually stretched after releasing a section of rope. This can prevent the surety from being dragged down by falling forces and can also reduce the climbers and ropes. load.
Http://
John Salathe, a Swiss blacksmith, invented hard rock nails using old Ford wheel axles. Early pitons were made of soft metal and bent under stress. Hard rock nails and nylon ropes greatly enhance the feasibility of climbing.
Lost Arrow's climb is one of Yosemite's most famous goals. The base of Lost Arrow is pulled up from the Yosemite Valley and points to the sky like an arrow. The top of the rock tower is separated from the main body of the rock wall, so it is always the goal of the climber to climb. .
In 1946 John Salathe failed to challenge Lost Arrow alone. Later he tried again with his companion but failed to get near 30 feet off the rock.
In the same year, Arnold, Hansen, Fritz Lippmann, and Anton "Ax" Nelson, they came up with a solution. They walked to the main body of the rock, while another group climbed from the bottom of the Lost Arrow, and the group of people in the main body of the rock tried to pull the rope. Throw past Lost Arrow's spire, and after nearly a hundred attempts they finally successfully threw the rope over Lost Arrow's spire, and another group of people approached the base, and the three of them were also connected from the main body of the rock wall. Successfully climbed Lost Arrow against the rope.
In the same year, John Salathe and Anton "Ax" Nelson climbed the southernmost half of Half Dome. They spent the whole night on the rocky wall and became the first bivouac on the Yosemite rock wall.
In the same year, John Salathe and Anton "Ax" Nelson also managed to climb from the base of Lost Arrow. They spent a total of five days. They slept on the rock and finally succeeded in climbing the Lost Arrow. Their climb this time set a good example of a big cliff climb and created a new era of Yosemite climbing.
1950
The young Allen Steck and John Salathemake completed the first ascent of the north face of the Sentinels, which is a wide crevice, and they must shuttle through the crevices to develop a fissure-climbing method, which was later named after their name. (Steck-Salathe).
The Sierra Club quickly published their mountaineering records and attached the Sierra Club Decimal Rating System developed from the Tahquitz Mountains to each route. The Sierra Club Decimal Rating System quickly became The difficulty of climbing routes in the United States was later defined as the Yosemite Decimal Rating System, which is now known as the YDS difficulty system.
1958
Since many of Yosemite’s canyons have already been climbed by others, Warren “Batso†Harding’s determined attempt to find a route that could last forever has challenged him, so he took a look at El Capitan’s most prominent The route, because its shape looks like a nose bridge, is called Nose. This climb is done by artificial climbing, using a large number of pitons (Piton). It took 18 months to complete the 47 days.
1960
Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost. It took only six, eight, and three days to complete El Capitan for the second time.
1961
Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost first climbed El Capitans Salathe Wall (they only had 13 Bolts)
1967
In June Royal Robbins and TM Herbert climbed west of El Capitan.
1968
For the first time, Royal Robbins completed the El Capitans Muir Wall with a total of 29 pitches, using 30 Bolts.
1969
T. Bauman completed Nose with Free Solo.
In the early 1970s, when rock wedges were introduced into the United States from Europe, the initial artificial rock wedges were not as reliable as rock nails, making most American rock climbers unwilling to use it. Until the early 1970s, John Stannard mentioned in an article the devastating destruction of the cracks in the rock wall by rock nails, and suggested that rock climbers use rock wedges and avoid the use of rock nails to protect the rock walls. This article immediately caused widespread repercussions. Nearly overnight, Clean Climbing, clean artificial climbing, non-destructive artificial climbing became the mainstream way of climbing large cliffs, and manufacturers immediately produced a large number of rock wedges.
The 1970s was the most eclectic phase of the development of rock climbing. Rock climbers from all over the world began to pilgrimage to Yosemite in California to study Yosemite’s climbing techniques (developed in the early 1950s through the 1960s, mainly free Climbing plus climbing technics) and developing their own technology. In the early 1970s, the rock climbing movement was dominated by British and American figures. During this period, many of the techniques and equipment were largely established. In addition; climbers also know that for free climbing; British rock wedge system is more efficient than American rock nail system. This situation did not change until the invention of the SLCD-spring-loaded camming units. At the same time, some manufacturers began to produce a new generation of nylon ropes that absorb shock and strength.
1973
For the first time, all women's climbing teams completed El Cap -- Sibylle Hechtel and Bev Johnson climb Triple Direct (a combination of three routes: the Salathe, the Muir, and the Nose).
1975
For the first time, John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay completed Nose in one day.
1979
For the first time, Ray Jardine and Bill Price completed the west side of El Capitan by free climbing.
1988
For the first time, Todd Skinner and Paul Piana completed the Salathe Wall with free climbing.
1989
Parapalegic climber Mark Wellman and Mike Corbett ascend the Nose Route of El Capitan
1991
Peter Croft and Dave Schultz set the West Face of El Cap in 2:20 in two hours and 20 minutes.
1992
Hans Florine and Andreas Puhvel speed climb Salathe Wall of El Cap in 8:56. Steve Schneider solos a one-day ascent of Salathes in June/92 in 21:44. Hans Florine and Peter Croft speed climb the Nose in 4:22 in June/92. The first female one day ascent of the Nose occurs in June/92 as well--17:40, by Nancy Feagin, and Sue Mcdevitt.
1993
Lynn Hill, Americas premier rock climber, makes first free ascent of The Nose. In August Hans Florine solos the nose in 14:10.
1994
In June/94, Hans Florine and Steve Schneider speed climb The Nose (6:29) and the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel (3:50) with a total time of 14:00. In October/94 Hans Florine executes a trifecta Of El Capitans The Nose (5:42), Lurking Fear (8:52) and West Face (4:31) for a total time of 23:01.
During the Second World War, climbing activities were rare, but due to the demand for war, the technology of the industry was promoted. Before the war, the number of pitons and shackles was small and heavy. It was replaced with light weight after the war. Aluminum gold shackle. In addition, the climbers still use large, bulky, traditional hemp ropes before the war, and it is easy to tear the rope during long falls. At the time, the advice of senior climbers for rock climbing beginners was often "Don't fall!" because each fall may be fatal. After the war, the birth of a new nylon rope undoubtedly brought a potent booster to rock climbing.
During the next two decades, the climb in the United Kingdom and the United States developed rapidly in the United Kingdom; they still maintained a rock-climbing tradition, enabling them to develop some of the techniques of wedges and the technology of fixed-point erection, such as the use of Rope loops to cover the rock horn, and later even developed a mechanical rock wedge (similar to the Check Stone device). Undoubtedly, the British way of climbing is subject to many restrictions, because not every route can be equipped with rock wedges, so the route they can choose is very limited. At the same time, Europeans continued to enjoy the warmth of the alpine-style summits in climbing; in the area of ​​Fountainbleu in the suburbs of Paris, the activities of climbing large rocks (bouldering) were developed, making the Europeans' climbing skills slightly ahead of others; European manufacturers also produce a new generation of nylon ropes.
The shoe designed for rock climbing in the 1960s was born. It looks like the current climbing shoe, but its main function is to step on the rock pin. The development of rock climbing in the United States and the United Kingdom has gradually become an independent activity and is no longer a vassal of climbing. At this time, many climbing routes only reach the top of the rock, or the point of decline in the middle of the rock wall, and no longer have the purpose of ascending to the top of the mountain. In addition, the techniques used by British and American climbers to climb the summit are mainly based on artificial climbing (Aid Climbing) or grabbing nails. At the time, the climbing practice later developed into the current Free Climbing.
In 1973 Ray Jardine invented the world's first SLCD (Friends) from the vision of the brothers Greg Lowe. Originally, Ray Jardine was fighting with the 5.8 route; but after he began using Friends, he conquered 5.10, 5.11, 5.12 one after another. Even 5.13, at that time, climbers believed that using Friends to climb was a cheating act, but almost every climber started using SLCDs in a few years.
In the 1980s, many rock climbers traveled to different rock climbing sites in the world. They came from different regions and different rock fields, which made the technical level of climbing a new level.
At this time, rock climbing in France is gradually developing towards sports. Because most of the territory in France is limestone and lacks rock walls with cracked terrain, Yosemite's climbing technology using rock wedges and spring-like rock wedges (SLCD) cannot be used in France. Domestic development. French rock climbers have begun to focus on climbing skills. They use bolts to ensure points. This way they can avoid the need to set up fixed fulcrums and focus on climbing skills. . They connect successive bouldering movements into a climbing route and use Bolts as a sure point, so another new form of climbing is created. That is, sports climbing. Many outstanding rock climbers will now descend from the rock top before climbing a difficult new route. Pre-planning the climbing path, clearing loose rocks or plants, nailing Bolts, and starting actual climbing If you have to wait until the entire line of action is consistent, you may need to spend a whole day, weeks, or even months of repeated crashes to climb one route. This way of climbing the route later became a way to compete in climbing difficulties.
After hundreds of years of evolution and escalation, technology and equipment have continuously improved. Now, sports climbing is no longer a risky activity in the past. Today's sports climbers may fall more than a dozen times a day, and they never worry about it. Life is at risk.
Glossary:
Traditional climbing Traditional climbing is climbing from the bottom up, and the fulcrum is erected along the line to ensure its own safety. The purpose is to reach the summit. Since this way of climbing must be placed along the way to ensure points, most of the traditional climbing routes are cracked terrain, and climbing routes follow cracks.
Traditional climbing is divided into two categories: Free Climbing and Aid Climbing. Free climbing is also known as free climbing. When climbing, only the body's limbs do not depend on other equipment. The rope is only used to ensure safety. use.
The definition of artificial climbing: In order to seek the top without limiting any method, use all available equipment, such as rock nails, rope ladders, risers and so on. Artificial climbing evolves with the history of mountaineering activities.
The traditional difficulty level in the United States is to adopt the YDS system. The YDS system only assesses the most difficult segment of the route as the difficulty of the entire route.
Sports Climbing Sport Climbing
Later, the Europeans developed another new form of climbing. Before they climbed a new route, they began by winding other simple routes over the route they wanted to challenge, and then rappelled down to arrange the route. Due to the developed limestone terrain in Europe but no fractured terrain, the fulcrum could not be erected. Therefore, the Europeans first built a sure spot on the rock wall before climbing from the bottom. The climbing route was to advance along the Bolts. The route is the Sport Route.
The definition of sport climbing: After finishing the route and setting a fixed point, it begins to do free climbing. In addition to being able to successfully overcome a route, the goal of sport climbing is to be able to find the most effective climbing action. Efficient crawling is also the most labor-saving way to climb a route with the most efficient climbing method. Each top rock climber has a perfect set of crawling methods in his mind, as long as the perfect climbing method is shown as much as possible. Since today, sports climbing (climbing) has become a competitive sport, and it is increasingly being developed indoors. Although the difficulty grade of American sports climbing is still dominated by the YDS system, its sense of right has changed, currently from 5.0 to 5.15.
Bouldering Bouldering
Bouldering is a very short climbing exercise. Each route may have only a few movements. Since the movement is only a few steps, it cannot be called a "route" and is called a "problems problem." Bouldering does not depend on the securing of ropes, so a safety mat must be laid on the ground. In most of the United States, the bunker district adopted the V System difficulty grade. The V system progression was developed in the 1980s at Hueco Tanks (the famous American Boulder Rock Field). The difficulty is currently from V0 to V14. Because the bouldering route is usually more focused on skill and explosiveness, its difficulty is not suitable for comparison with long routes that are biased towards endurance (YDS system). Bouldering is now becoming a mainstream climbing sport.
A brief history of sports climbing
In 1947, the world’s first organized and ruled climbing contest with pre-declared prizes was held in the summer of 1947 on the rock face of Dombai (West Caucasus) in Russian Russia. The group was guided by Ivan Antonovich to guide the mountaineering. The competition was organized.
The participating guides must climb the two routes alone. One is to climb up and down. The other is a 30-meter crossing. The time is taken to complete the course.
Since 1959, John Gill began a reform of climbing. Since John Gill is a gymnast himself, he integrates the movements of gymnastics into the action of climbing. In order to reach a further hand, John Gill developed a dynamic on the rock wall. The jump movement, which is now Dyno, breaks through the inherent old ideas of three points. So John Gill can be called the ancestor of the sport and it is also
There have been various forms of rock climbing competition since the 1970s, and the venues are all in natural rock fields.
After 1988 all UIAA's official games were held at artificial rock sites.
In 1991, German rock climber Wolfgang Gullich successfully climbed the Action Directe (5.14d) route, pushing the limits of human free climbing to another peak.
References:
Http://
Http://~jrblack/yrecs.html
Thin And Light Sanitary Napkins
Cotton Sanitary Napkin,Thin Sanitary Napkins,Leak-Proof Sanitary Napkin,Thin And Light Sanitary Napkins
Shandong Tianzige International Trade Co., Ltd , https://www.tianzigedipers.com