Mountaineering route selection
There are only a few specialized writings on the selection of mountaineering routes. We usually only have some experience, and without a systematic analysis, we only know the low latitudes, take the small roads; steep glaciers, take the side track; slow glaciers, on the ice; Towers, ridges, and other jingles. This time, he went to the Tibet Mountaineering Team and found that Comrade Cheng Tianliang wrote a special article in this regard. Moreover, the article contains practical examples. It is recommended to all mountain friends.
Some Problems Should Be Paid Attention to in Mountain Route Selection
Among the factors that lead to the success of mountaineering, the correctness of the mountaineering route choice is of great significance.
Crossing the river to solve the tool problem, climbing must solve the route problem.
In the history of international mountaineering, due to the improper selection of climbing routes, there are many precedents for the failure of the project. In our country’s mountaineering campaign, due to improper selection of routes, we missed the opportunity to log in. In the case of the fourth march of 1975, the prominent group set off from the last camp of 8,600 meters, because the route deviated from the original plan. The ridge line of the northeastern ridge, using a too low route, has lost its proper height and cannot reach the “second stage†as planned. It missed the rare first-rate weather cycle and lost the opportunity to land the project. Delayed the entire mountaineering cycle.
The principle of mountaineering route selection:
The first is the principle of security. What is a safe route? In the entire route from the base camp to Xiangfeng, although it is covered with difficult terrain and there are various dangers in the mountains, after taking various technical measures and the team members to play their due technical level, they can guarantee their personal safety. Safe route or success route. For example, the route to the northeast ridge of Mount Everest. Although there are extremely difficult terrains such as “Northern Tower†and “Second Teamâ€, there is extreme oxygen deficiency: ice avalanches, bright and dark cracks, slip falls, snowstorms and other mountain hazards, but if you use the right machine, arrange accordingly. The measures can be called safe routes through difficult and dangerous terrain.
Second, evacuation and seeking for ease are the second principles in choosing a mountaineering route. To climb a peak of more than eight kilometers, the general hiking route is more than twenty kilometers, and the route of the northeastern ridge of Mount Everest is as long as 35 kilometers. The route is long, and a series of workloads must be added to the transportation of materials, physical conservation, establishment of camps, use of good weather, rescue of injured and sick persons, organization and command, communication and other aspects. This should seek to choose a shorter route under the premise of safety to reduce unnecessary workload and save the players' physical strength.
Third, choose the route according to the topography of the mountain. Mountain climbing is a struggle between man and nature in a special natural and geographical environment. To overcome the difficulties of the natural world, we must understand the environmental characteristics of the activities.
The terrain of the high mountain area has obvious characteristics of zonation in the vertical direction. The forest belt is below 3,500 meters, the grassland belt is between 3,500 and 5,000 meters, and the glacial ice belt is between 5,500 and 5,500 meters. Above the plateau is the plateau glacial cold belt, and it is often characterized by a mixture of snow and ice. Glaciers are mainly represented by ice and snow recharge areas, which are sporadic ice and snow on the walls of snow-covered basins and slopes on ridges. Rocks in this area are dominated by frozen weathered broken rocks.
When choosing a mountaineering route, it is necessary to consider how to pass through the various terrains above. When marching in the forest, you should make full use of the roads that the local herdsmen and hunters walk through, and pay attention to the marked directions on the newly-selected routes; the alpine meadows and meadow belts have a wide field of vision and routes are easy to choose, but they should be avoided. Muddy swamps; when selecting routes in glacial-ice tracks, two aspects should be noted: Route selection in glacier zones such as marching along glaciers and on mountain glaciers, routes should be in gutters between glacier sidetracks and glaciers Select; When entering the gentle height of the glacier surface, it should go from the drain to the glacier surface. Try to avoid moving in areas where glaciers melt, such as the ice tower area. When crossing the glaciers, for valley glaciers in low latitudes, the route should be at the top of the junction between the snow basin and the ice tongue, that is, the upper limit of the ice tower, which is the snow line, where the glaciers are narrow and the ice slope is relatively gentle. The boundary between annual snow cover and ablation zone is the exit of the snow-covered basin. Ice and snow are restricted by the terrain here, and a large number of ice cracks are produced below this point, which is safer. For example, at 6300m in the East Rongbu Glacier and 5800m in the Central Rongbu Glacier, the short glaciers in high latitudes, such as the glaciers on the northern slope of the Bogda Peak, should cross the glaciers and should choose smooth and flat ice. The tongue part should not be passed in the area of ​​steep and snowy cracks. In the valleys of high valleys, the ice tongue is still melting strongly. The ice cliffs are full of ice and the ice tongue is not easily traversed. This applies to the principle of crossing in the low latitudes at the exit of the snow basin, for example, The glaciers of Seoul are this type.
In the route selection in the ice terrain, we must pay attention to the distribution of ice tracks. Glacier watch, ice-trace stone is generally 20-40 cm thick, under it is ice, undulating and difficult to walk. The trail is formed by the appearances and trails left behind by the retreat of the glacier. It is an ancient piece of ice that has no ice, and even covers a small number of plants. The soil is developed, and it is relatively solid and safe. Strips are distributed under the tongue of the glacier, making it easier to choose routes.
For the glacier's side track, if you do not choose glacier drainage, you should choose the route on the side track. Generally speaking, the newer side track, which is close to the lowest level of the glacier, is better preserved. Because of the weathering, rolling stone, and mud-rock flow, the cuts are severe and the damage is large and inconvenient.
The middle embankment is a combination of two glacier side tracks formed in the glacier movement. It is an ideal terrain along the route of the glacier. The middle embankment can be generally extended from the end of the ice tongue to the glacier snow basin, as it has two Between the glaciers, the route chosen above is not easily affected by ice avalanches and rockfalls on the slopes. For example, the route from 5700m to 6300m in the East Rongbu Glacier of Mount Everest is selected on the middle embankment of the East Rongbu Glacier and the North Peak Glacier.
For the snow-capped glaciers, ice cracks are mainly prevented. Due to the wide latitude, low-latitude glacial snow basins, the line of sight is open, and the route selection is not too difficult. For the snow-covered walls, or the snow basins of high-latitude glaciers, Route selection is a difficult area. In general, after the mountaineering route arrives here, it enters the ridge zone from a mountainous terrain. Often in this junction area, there are extremely complicated ice and snow topography, the north and north walls of Mount Everest, and the Kangxiong glacier source to the south and west. Peaks 6300 meters-6500 meters, 6900 meters-7100 meters all belong to this intersection zone. This area is characterized by large slopes, frequent occurrence of ice avalanches, criss-crossing of bright and dark cracks, and the development of ice and snow steep slopes, becoming a typical ice storm area. The choice of route is extremely complicated, and there are often cases where the line of sight is overcast. To select routes in such areas, after comprehensive observation and analysis at a suitable location with a full view, take 1-2 routes for field reconnaissance, and then establish a safer and shorter route. In the field reconnaissance, it is feasible to adopt a method of setting up a lookout to communicate with the team at any time via the telephone, such as the method of detecting the topography of the Tomur peak from 5600 to 6300 meters in 1977. It is also necessary to carry out repairs and install fixed safety protection measures in individual locations.
The route on the ridge avoids the threat of ice avalanches (which can only occur under the ridges). The ice cracks may also be small, but the subsequent storms, slides, etc., become the main danger. To march on the ridge must pay attention to prevention. For example, the topography of Mount Everest is 7,500 meters.
For the extremely high cold zone, the main feature of the terrain is rock ice and snow mixed terrain. In this area, the macroscopic terrain is relatively clear, and it is reasonable to say that it is easier to choose the route. However, because of the obstruction of local terrain, it sometimes hinders the sightlines of athletes. This requires that one must be good at observing the entire terrain and grasp the general direction of the route. The local terrain is confusing. Looking at a stone from a distance, the illusion of seeing a small hill pack often appears in mountaineering. Here, athletes must strive for global and local unity. Do not lose the height that has been achieved, and protect the general direction of the route. This is the key to success or failure.
Fourth, the selection of mountaineering routes seeks to see the main peak on the entire route. This has important implications for the organization and commanding and communication. However, it is relatively small to see the main peak across the board. The individual routes of high-latitude peaks such as Muztagag, Bogda, and Golgol are ideal. When the main peak cannot be seen on all lines, the main peak can be seen from the forward camp (ie, the second largest base camp). .
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