Watching the Peak - Great for climbing K2

A mountain climber said to me many years ago: “I fell in love with mountain climbing because I fell in love with the mountain climbing process and not only fell in love with the peak, but the peak is that no one climber can refuse, because there are beautiful scenery there. And hallucinations, dreams and tears, experiences and gains that are hard to come by, and the realization and proof that men have longed for.”

Document.write("");ad_dst = ad_dst+1; A few years later this outstanding mountaineer was killed in an avalanche.

Because of this phrase, every time I send a climber uphill in the mountaineering camp, I will stare at the summit for a long time, and imagine the piece of scenery at every pole of the mountain that will never be seen for me. I think people's status in pursuit of a certain goal is the most attractive, and the charm of the mountain is that it is always a goal that can awaken people's charm.

K2 is such a goal.

In the huge Karakorum Mountains, K2 is still unrivaled even with several 8,000-meter peaks next to each other. Even Mount Everest, which is higher than it, may not be able to occupy more words than K2 in the mountaineering dictionary of professional climbers.

Therefore, Hollywood masters did not let go of K2 as usual when choosing movie subjects. Yes, to carry Hollywood-style tragedy, love and affection, which mountain is still more lethal than K2.

In the past 50 years, 53 climbers have integrated bones into the K2 glaciers, and have made a stunning death game impressively one after another.

In the days and the nights of this issue of "K2, The Barbarous Summit," I always felt as though I was accepting some kind of hint. It reminded me of many people and things related to the mountains. I couldn't help but recall what those people thought were originally thought. The long memories, and therefore found that these memories never go away.

The branding of snow mountains has never been repaired. The wild mountain peaks like the K2 are sending out magical information to the climbers all the time. There is a wonderful view of the world, a taste of death, and the love and dedication of human nature that will never die.

Most of us may miss K2 for the rest of our lives, because to reach the place where K2 can be seen, the 9981 hardships that we have to go through may be too costly compared to the beauty of many transportation facilities on Earth. Expensive." Not to mention the landscape above the steep cliffs of ice and snow, not to mention the eagerness of the "peaks".

But I stubbornly believe that K2 is a must-read book, because the magnificent and colorful light that rises at an altitude of eight kilometers is definitely not just white snow, blue sky, but flying Clouds and dazzling light.

I believe that even in a place far from k2, you can smell the breath of the peak.

In the days when mankind entered the 50th anniversary of K2, let's watch K2 together and watch the summit.

K2 peak climbing event

1902 - First attempt

In 1902, European climbers led by the British Aikenstone formed a 6-person team to go to climb K2. Before the monsoon approached, they passed through Baltoro, the 67th longest glaciers in the world. The British originally planned to cross the southeastern ridge straight from the south, but after reaching the K2 peak, they changed their plans and thought it might be easier to climb from the northeastern ridge. However, they tried several times without success. They only reached 6528 meters above sea level. the height of.

1954 - Magnificent and difficult first ascent

From 1902 to 1953, there were 6 teams from Italy, the United States, etc. along the southeastern mountains from the Pakistani side.

Ridge climbing failed.

In 1954, the Italians returned to K2. This expedition identified a dual goal: not only to summit K2, but also to carry out a complete series of scientific research on geography, geology and natural history.

The commander of the expedition, Dessell, said that the only way to succeed is to strictly abide by the climbing plan and militarize the climbing team. Each expedition member must give up his ambitions for the overall interests of the expedition.

In mid-June, all supplies required for the summit were shipped to C4 camp, and the expedition hopes to reach the summit before the end of the month. But in the next few weeks, snowstorms began to wreak havoc in the Karakoram mountains, and climbing was forced to stagnate. Until late July, the snowstorm began to weaken, and the weather looked more stable. Expedition captain Dessell decided to seize this opportunity to climb up. The C5 is located at an altitude of 7,300 meters and Camp No. 6 was established at 7,600 meters. One of the team members died of lung edema on C2 on July 20, slowing the progress of the climb. However, the climb continues and the C8 camp is located at 8,150 meters. On July 28, four people arrived at C8 in the evening. Two of the four individuals succeeded on the second day. After reaching the ridge, oxygen was exhausted 200 meters from the summit. The players decided to climb anaerobicly. After strenuous efforts, they climbed to the top in the afternoon. This is the first time that humans have climbed the top of K2.

The names of the two summiters on the summit, Daylecheche and Abecomos, were not announced until the expedition arrived in Italy. Captain Dessell said that the success of the summit is an honour for the entire team, and every member of the team has contributed to its success.

Questionable Northwest Ridge in 1975

Since the first summit of K2 in 1954, the Karakorum mountains have been quiet for many years. It is difficult to enter and it seems to have greatly reduced the interest of mountaineers.

India and Pakistan’s tensions over Kashmir and the China-Pakistan border dispute caused Pakistani authorities to close the region. This tension continued and sometimes eased. Over time, the result of the dispute was that K2’s northern border was designated as Chinese territory, and the two ridges defined the border between China and Pakistan.

In 1975, the American Jim Wintek (the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest) led a mountaineering team to prepare a new route from the northwest ridge. However, due to the sectarian conflict in Kashmir reflected in the team, the team abandoned the plan at 6700 meters. In Galen Rodriguez's book, various controversies and conjectures have been published on this matter. By reporting these problems that were ignored by other books, this book appears to be different from previous books of the same kind, and it has caused latecomers to attention. In the same year, a powerful Polish mountaineering team (19 members, seemingly powerful but not hiring the mountains to collaborate but only their own load) intended to climb from the northeastern ridge. They fixed the ropes along the ridge and finally established Camp 6 at 8000 meters. From the camp, they relied on oxygen. Sik and Khonik stopped at 8250 meters, while Krobek and Rhodes reached 8400 meters on the second day. At this time, the oxygen was exhausted and only reluctance to withdraw underground. The team members were often ill and made them unable to have any attempts. [page]

In 1979, the study of the devil route was aborted

In 1979, Messner led a six-man team trying to climb from the south-southwest ridge (which he called the Devil Line), but he quickly realized that the route was dangerous for collaboration, plus the vomiting symptoms of several members. Messner decided to change from the traditional route and reached the summit with Mike Decker. This is Messner's fifth 8000-meter peak experience. After Messner's team withdrew from the south-southwest, a large French team (including Pierre Befen and Janique Sennier) reached 8,400 meters along this route, and was evacuated due to bad weather. In this expedition, Jane McBawaugh used a paraglider to descend from the 4,600-meter Camp 4 to the base camp, a move that set a world record.

West Ridge never gave up in 1981

In the first half of 1981, the Pakistani side approved a four-man French-German climbing team to climb from the south line. This team was led by Yannick Sennier and eventually reached an altitude of 7,400 meters. Then a Japanese team was formed by the western ridge. Starting from the 1980 British route, it reached a height of 8,200 meters, from where they crossed a snow belt to the top of the southwest ridge. This line was fixed with a rope of 5,500 meters and it took 52 days. On August 6th, 3 people, including Otani Iyohan and Seibo, reached the southwestern ridge along the ropes and prepared for a summit. Three people had already relied on oxygen to fix the ropes on August 5. When they reached a height of 8,300 meters, they faced tremendous difficulties in climbing. They abandoned their equipment and reached an altitude of 8,470 meters at 6:00 PM, where they decided to camp. Without any facilities and food, only rely on candles to warm in a rushed snow cave. On the morning of August 7th, they continued to move upward 100 meters, only 50 meters from the top. At this time, Daibu Ibashi contacted the base camp, but was told to withdraw because they were over-fatigue. When he became the leader of the team, he was confident that he had reached the summit and was surprised by the notice of the withdrawal. After 45 minutes of fierce debate, the leader of the Base Camp agreed to summit. Another Japanese player was exhausted at the time and it was difficult to continue, but Otani Yoshihide and SABIR topped out in an hour. In the end, the three people overcame the risk of fatigue, dehydration and anytime arrival, and returned safely to the base camp.

1982 - The misfortune in the northern ridge

Another Japanese mountaineering team chose the northern ridge in China in 1982 (had conducted a survey in advance). This is a magnificent, 15-km journey. The sparsely populated local population means that in addition to the Japanese team, there is also an Alpine team to provide support. The team members marched along the northern ridge of 45 degrees and met a Polish mountaineer at a commanding height. They set off from the northwest ridge of Pakistan but were forced to enter China because of difficult routes. This encounter unexpectedly met with a warm protest from the Chinese side. The Poles eventually failed to reach the top, perhaps only so. The Japanese were successful on August 14th, and the next day more than four Japanese people climbed this route. These Japanese people were all alone without oxygen and camped when they were evacuated. Unfortunately, Yoshizawa Yoshizawa did not even have a sleeping bag and a life jacket. After camping, he fell and died.

1986 - Extraordinary K2 Climbing Year

In the following 1986 there was a large number of records. Nine times this year's expedition to K2 was approved. Some people chose the original route. Others were diverted to traditional routes due to difficulties. Two Americans, Alan Pennington and John Snowy died in an avalanche on June 21, but six people climbed to the top two weeks later. Wanda Lukkewicz became the first female to reach the summit. Lilien White was the second. Li Lien and his husband were at the top, but they died when they withdrew. On July 5, 1986, as many as eight people ascended the summit, all of which were recorded by the traditional route, including Bernard Chance, which took only 23 hours to reach the summit. Jones' Lichnski is The second summit. As of today, Jones is the record holder of two K2 summits. The mountains give these successful people great honor and make them outstanding people.

1986 - Astonishing success in the summit

On July 8, 1986, Jericho Kukužica and Todd Espintczka completed a surprisingly successful summit from the South Wall. The two Poles were members of the international mountaineering team led by Dr. Kirikov, and the other players in the team chose the traditional route for safety and difficulty. Two of the Swiss players were on July 5th. Go to the top. It was this expedition that made Kukuzika contrast westerners (Americans) with Poles, that is, Americans are like cars they make, and they are better suited to driving on good roads, while ancient Polish wood types are The car can adapt to rough roads. Most of the people who quoted this sentence just saw it as a general evaluation, and Kukuzika actually applied it to those who are proud, vanity, and unorganized, and when it comes to danger, difficulty, and bad weather. Retreating Western climbers. Of the western countries referred to in the metaphor, only Japan has been able to emerge as a mountain climber who can find shortcut routes rather than being able to overcome extreme difficulties. Of course, there are exceptions (it is said that most of the pioneering climbs were done by Westerners), but these are major and eye-catching.

The Poles arrived under the ice tower, which had scared off many expeditions and their own team members. Then they set up a pile of equipment, at 7000 meters, due to bad weather delayed by ten days. Kukužica and Težica return to the ice tower. Afterwards, it took 2 days to reach the equipment storage site, and it took 2 days to reach the last HEADWALL. At this point, Kukuzika took only two days to travel only 30 meters, which was later described as the most difficult high altitude climb. At the campsite, the Poles dropped the last GAS can and used candles to melt a large glass of snow. The next day, they peaked and withdrew down the shoulders, but were forced to camp again. In bad weather and severe dehydration, they continued to withdraw to the camp along the traditional route, but Kukuqika's cramps fell off and slipped suddenly. Kukuqika is safely descending and K2 is his 11th 8000-meter peak and is also the peak that most brought him close to the limit.

Shadow Climbing

After the Polishs completed their climb, the Italian Renato Casale fell to the ice cracks, which took place from the devil's line. The number of people who died on the hill rose from 12 to 18, but this number continued in 1986. On August 3, 1986, the Polish Posika and Walls and the Slovak Berkuk completed the climb on the Devil Line, but the subsequent disaster cast a shadow on the climb. Wools died as he evacuated along the traditional route. The other two survived and slammed into the already crowded No. 4 camp. On August 4th, the two Poles and three Koreans continued to withdraw. At this time, Paul, Mitz, Delbeck, Turis, Ross and Wolff had already made their way to the top. Witzel's body has been difficult to top, but declined with the Poor down, but chose to wait for his teammates. Among the above six people, only Wolf was at the top, and Delbek and Turis were forced to camp at Camp 4. They had survived a slide in the descent. After returning to the camp, a five-day storm caused seven people in the camp to be in trouble, during which Toris died. Persisted until August 10th, the players realized that the continued stay would be a dead end. As a result, the five climbers began to withdraw during the brief interval of the storm. Rose was left in the camp 4 because of his indecision. At the time of the descent, Mitzel and Weitzer died not far from Camp 4, and Wolfe fell off the ropes. Only frostbite Paul and Delberg arrived at the base camp. The condemnation and debate surrounding this mountain battle have been constant (see “K2 - Never Limit” written by Delberg).

Confusing climb

If the Polish climb this time along the devil's route was overshadowed by the difficulty of the mountain, then Tom Searson, who claimed to have climbed alone along the south-southeast line, is even more puzzling. Sesesen arrived at the ridge along the south-eastern South Line on August 4th, but he rushed to the top of the Abruzzi mountain range and did not reach the fourth camp. The climb was controversial because Saysen claimed to find a new route. In fact, then? This route had been climbed by Scott's team in 1983. Some people doubted that Sensen would doubt. However, it is also possible that the withdrawal along the original route was not seen. Some skeptics have begun to accept it. His statement (but why did you choose a well-known line at unpredictable risk?)

Long-lost new breakthrough

In the next four years, there was no further exploration, but there were many losers. A Swiss-Polish joint mountaineering team failed in the Western Wall. Two teams failed in the Eastern Wall and one Polish team failed on the original route (winter). Then in 1990, a Japanese team climbed a new route on the north side - the west wall-north ridge route.

In 1993, a total of 16 climbed to the top. Britannic J. Jean Parrette and American Dan Mousse set a feat along the Western Ridge route: direct assault from the assault camp and return to the summit. It took only 32 hours. .

Horror and bloody mountain disaster

In 1995, more mountain accidents occurred. In July, there were some successful climbs. On the evening of August 13, another six climbers reached the summit and were confirmed by wireless telephone. When they withdrew, a ferocious wind struck the top of the mountain, blowing five climbers into hell. In the same year, a German commercial expedition failed to climb the north ridge.

Climbers are rejected

In 1998 and 1999, K2 rejected everyone who had travelled long distances along Baltoro, despite Hans Kammerland’s ascent in 1999, along the Basque route. Climbing and hoping to ski down after landing, but he only reached 8400 meters. He vowed to come again.

to sum up

By the end of this century, the number of explorers who successfully climbed the top of the K2 was close to 200. This is an extraordinary figure for such a dangerous and difficult mountain. This number means the unique charm of this beautiful K2. But at the same time, statistics show that the death rate at the time of the fall from the top of the hill is 1:7. This is a terrible high rate, but it cannot stop the endless stream of future explorers.

The soul of the mountains

How do you decipher K2, the password for the most mysterious and deadly mountain in the earth? If you are a climber, does it have the courage to accept being restrained in failure, whether you can understand failure and have its own value?

Death Tour

Today, the sun is sunny and the breeze is slowly setting. It is a perfect rare weather in Karakorum. In the afternoon, I cautiously walked through the glaciers that covered the bones at the foot of K2. The sky at 4,888 meters is clear and clear like a glass—it seems to strongly contrast the large peak of this dark and clumsy second world peak. This 8611-meter-high mountain is covered with a thick layer of ice helmets and stands proudly there.

The K2 base camp is located on a glacier and is a moon-like palace built with gravel. It was all but deserted here, with only a few Pakistani workers and a 45-year-old American woman Jennifer Jordan. As a journalist and director, Jordan came here in June to urge her boyfriend Hodder's work. Her boyfriend here is making a documentary about the five women who went to K2. Prior to this we talked about the history of some K2, and I found this theme she has done in-depth study. Later, she asked me if I would like to embark on this "death journey" with her.

The summer of 2002 was particularly warm, so the number of those who lost their lives also rose to their maximum. Six weeks ago, Jordan discovered Doolie Wolfe, a wealthy American playboy who was also a fanatic climber. In July 1939, he got into trouble at a height of 7,930 meters on the southeast ridge, and then disappeared. Along with him there were three Sherpas, who were the first climbers to lose their lives in K2. Jordan discovered some of Wolf's climbing gear, a mittens with his name on it. Sixty-four years later, his bones and tools moved only 1.5 miles in the glacier, moving an average of 4 inches a day before he appeared on the surface.

Suddenly, our eyes were locked on a small piece of fine purple cloth. It seemed that it was only recently exposed to ice.

"Oh," Jordan exclaimed. "Who, who used to go through this kind of clothes here? A woman!" She guessed that it might have been a dress for Alison Hagre.

In May 1995, the 33-year-old American female mountaineer became the first woman to climb Everest alone without an oxygen device. She plans to then climb K2, and then later in the same year, climb Zhangjiafeng, the third highest peak in the world. On August 13th, on that clear day, she reached the top of K2. Unfortunately, a strong storm blew her and she and the other five climbers were blown down. “She was blown down on the ridge near the huge ice tower,” Jordan said as he pointed to the huge ice cubes nested on the top of the hill, marking the possibilities that Hagre had been left behind. Track, "Maybe we are standing where she fell."

As we continued on our way, we encountered a large variety of tools on the way, such as steel cone supports, oxygen tanks, and hiking boots. You cannot ignore the resilience of life, although in the beginning it was a little scary. But they seem to be promoting another spirit that separates K2 from other peaks such as the Himalayas. All the mountains devour life. The challenge of altitude, the conquest of difficulty, the temptation of the exploration of the unknown region are irresistible. The climber can reach his or her own soul by challenging the limit, confirming that it is difficult to understand on the horizon. The human nature was strongly distorted. On many mountain peaks, sacredness is often considered to be linked to the summit.

However, K2 is different.

K2's mystery looks like it's frozen frozen bones at the foot of the mountain. When all the new climbers got involved in the glaciers that retained so many previous climbers, everything reminded them of an 8,000-meter-high mountain. What does success mean? What does a terrible failure mean? They need to solve such problems. In addition to the cruelty of the natural environment such as rolling stones, storms, and ice collapses, failure may have other meanings and intrinsic values.

The meaning of the second height

In the 50 years since 1953, more than 1600 people have summited Mount Everest.

In 2003, 262 climbers scrambled to climb to the commanding heights of the highest peak in the world. In 2008, the Chinese planned to hold the Olympic Torch over the top of Mount Everest and then take the route to Beijing.

In comparison with Mt. Everest, only 196 climbers climbed the summit of K2 in the past 50 years. This summer, six expeditions of 55 people tried to reach the summit. The six expeditions were the Kazakh team, the Romanian team, the Spanish team, the Swiss team, the Czech Republic team, plus an international team. They gathered in the south of K2, many of whom were the world's most powerful mountaineering experts, but none of them succeeded in reaching the summit.

From the statistical point of view, this is the second unmanned summit year, at least based on the level of success of Everest, it seems that it can be confirmed that K2's realm is only a second-class giant. But in the eyes of professional climbers who have overcome world-class difficulty, things are a bit different.

“The difficulty of K2 is first and foremost its geographic location. Pakistani residents have never referred to this mountain. Only the bare bones of the mountain have a name.” In 1959, the Italian alpinist Forsk? Marina in his book “ Karakorum: "Gashulom IV Peak" wrote. "The rocks, glaciers, storms and abysses here make people discourage."

Only two routes can reach K2. The northern route crosses the border between China and Pakistan. You must first fly to Islamabad and then travel 500 miles to the northeast to Kashmir in Xinjiang, China. Then take the Jeep through the southern edge of the Taklamakan Desert, change to a camel or a wagon through the Uneven ridiculous Kele River valley. Starting from the “easy to reach” southern route, you will need to cross the 40-mile road, which is almost nowhere to follow, to the Ostens Glacier in northern Pakistan.

There are other reasons for K2's seclusion. It is eight degrees higher than Mount Everest, and the climate is extremely bad. “It was very cold and the storm blew down from the mountain,” said British climber Jim Cullen, author of “The Story of a Brutal Storm” in a book on K2's historical record. He said: “K2 is completely different. Everest, it is almost impossible to have a clear week for you to climb the summit."

In addition, Mount Everest has a lot to show off. It has a well-established permanent guidance and assistance system. There are tents for the Sherpas, fixed ropes, and oxygen equipment that is transported to the high camp tents. The K2 has almost no clerical workers and commercial service companies that help at higher altitudes. Part of the reason is that it is isolated from the rest of the world. On the other hand, experience has proven to be a guide for K2, just as it is for invitations to disasters.

This view was confirmed again in July this year. When a German climber just climbed to the top of the mountain, he slipped under his feet and crashed down the cliff. He was one of the ten climbers led by Swiss guide Kari Kubler. The experienced Swiss guide climbed Mount Everest twice. Grohs became the 53rd climber who died in K2.

A 2000 study on the deaths of high-altitude climbers published in the American Alpine Journal showed that the climber’s death rate at the summit of Mount Everest was 29% from 1978 to 1999. First, the death rate for climbers who climb the K2 peak is one-seventh. "This is a cruel figure," said Raymond Horney, professor of biology at Washington University and author of the 2000 study. "It's close to a Russian roulette game." When you're comparing it doesn't use When the oxygen climber climbs to the top, the numbers will become more fearful: the accident rate at Mount Everest is one-twelfth, and K2 is almost one-fifth.

The figures behind are even more frightening: For professional climbers, the death rate of K2 is even more than twice that of Mt. Everest. “You can think about this difference in this way. From Everest Base Camp, you can walk four hours to reach an inhabited village, and you can leisurely sipping beer on the sparse meadows to drink beer with your peers. K2 It is very difficult to get close to it and get close to it.The base camp is more like a moon, sparsely populated.The mountain is indestructible and there is no shortcut.When you first saw it, all of this hits you.It looks like Well-known Edward Munch’s expressionist painting.Did you know his masterpiece “Screaming?” Of course, besides knowing this, maybe you are screaming out loud like a person in the picture, a crazy shout from the heart goes through The whole universe."

Devil's stairs

For the climbers, from the moment they hit the most magnificent and challenging Concordia glaciers in the world, they are really anxious. The huge ice center is just 6 meters away from Base Camp where Baltoro Glacier and Goldwyn Austin Glacier merge. Concordia is surrounded by the main peaks of the Karakoram Ranges - Buloat, Gashulom Summit I, II, III - Four of the world's top fifteen peaks, with an average height of 8030 meters; East The gully of Ladakh stands on the Siachen Glacier in front of India and Pakistan on the front line of repeated conflicts on the border issue. If the weather is clear, climbers can see the giant K2 that stands on the sky from the north.

There are only a few extremely dangerous peaks in the Karakoram Mountains. Their mountain shape is more professional than the K2. The most famous Kashulom Peak IV (7932m) is located in the center of the Karakoram Mountains. However, in addition to these, the K2 is at the highest altitude among the arduous mountain range, the most popular of which should be the Abruzzi mountain range, with little room to deny it. A steep branch in the southeast was discovered in 1909 by Luigi Amando from Savoy, Italy, and the locals, Dach. This branch has a vertical climbing line of more than 3,355 meters, about 20 degrees more than the south slope.

Since 1954, 196 climbers have completed the K2 summit. 144 are reached through the Abruzzi Mountains. From 1938, 53 people were missing in the mountains and 36 people were killed in certain places in the ridge.

This mountain ranges from a series of towering peaks extending from the low branch to the 100-foot-high vertical gap called House's Chimney. It was named after Bill House, the first US to climb K2 in 1938. people. At an altitude of 6710 meters, the slope reaches 5.6 rock - this route is the most challenging.

About 7,473 meters above the narrow hole in the black pyramid is the notoriously unstable triangular ice rock formation. At the apex of the pyramid structure, the route leads to a spacious, open valley shoulder at about 7,930 meters to the fourth camp and assault camp located there.

From the valley's valley shoulders, the vertical height of the peak is 686 meters, but to get there, you need to successfully get involved in a wide valley, where there are knee-deep snow all year round, and you need to ensure that you can cross the technical difficulty. The high bottleneck – a 30-meter-high canyon painted with ice glaze – has a high risk factor of more than 50; then it climbs the exposed Z-shaped route, and from there it can be straight down to 2989 meters to reach the famous Goldwyn Austin Glacier. At least 20 people were killed here.

At the last pass, the summit is covered with snow, wide and steep, enough to kill you. In 1995, the death of Alison Hagre, who was proficient in snow and ice technology, and the death of her companion proved this.

This is the most fearful "devil step" in the world.

Magnificent and gorgeous

In the 8,000-kilometer-high summit in the world, k2 is famous for being the most difficult and dangerous. This mountain shows its uniqueness by exerting extraordinary pressure on the climbers. No one can understand this issue better than Wick Wyler. His experience is almost his death. On the afternoon of September 6, 1978, he finally reached the summit. When night fell, he found himself trapped alone on the top of the mountain. There was no tent and no sleeping bag. This forced him to endure storms and dips at a speed of 50 miles an hour. To the temperature of minus 25 degrees, it was the highest point of camping alone.

“That was the only time in my mountaineering career that I really felt I could do nothing, I didn’t know what I could do. But in the past 20 years, the k2 is my whole-hearted dream. These dreams have never disappeared, and that is the power and splendor of K2. "He got pleurisy after coming down from the hill and had to do a surgical removal of the lobe after he got home.

This splendor has an incredible expression. In the weeks before he reached the summit, he climbed with Roslike to Camp 3 on the peak of the northeastern ridge when he noticed the specter of Brocken (Specter of Brocken). - A rare light in which the silhouette of a climber is magnified and projected into the middle of a cloud, sometimes surrounded by double rainbows, which are two beautiful halos, one nested in the other . He said: "That was the only time I had observed the beauty of 40 years of climbing."

On the same ridge, one afternoon they discovered that they were surrounded by a group of orange and black butterflies flying in the air. "Butterflies are everywhere, and the world suddenly turns into beautiful orange fluttering gorgeous scenery."

These moments can appear on any mountain. However, with the spread of commercialization to the top, this experience has become increasingly difficult to see. K2’s compromising tendency to such momentary encounters explains to some extent why it can attract other types of climbers compared to Mount Everest. Climbers who want to climb k2 not only need superb skills, but also have a kind of The deep desire to climb the mountain.

No one is more eloquent than Dr. Chale Howden's comprehensive discussion of these factors. He led the U.S.’s first two ascents to the K2. One morning in 1953, this was the second time they tried to reach K2. At 7320 meters above the Abruzzi ridge, he looked out from the camp tent.

“It was probably at sunrise, the air was filled with ice chips, it was not snow; tiny, tiny ice crystals, red, yellow, green, purple, like a rainbow dazzling and colorful. In the dark blue sky A lot of ice crystals give off a faint glow. They are so soft and unforgettable."

This statement comes from the mouth of a person who has endured the most terrible difficulties in K2. The suffering he experienced in 1953 is more meaningful than other experiences. It means that he loses his dignity ---

Tragic peak

Dr. Chale Howden is a legend in the climbers' circle. He was an internist who had been educated at Harvard and Columbia University. In 1934 he participated in the first activity to climb Alaska's peaks; in 1938 he led the reconnaissance team in the Abruzzi Mountains; in 1950, he became the first to enter the Khumbu Gorge in Nepal. Westerners. At the same time, he is also a pioneer to explore the mountain climbing route on the south side of Mount Everest.

In the summer of 1953, 40-year-old Charlie and his old friend Bob called a very professional team to launch the Americans' third attack on K2. Bob is a 42-year-old English teacher. He was a teammate of Chale in 1938 and he had developed many tenth mountaineers' combat readiness in World War II. Charley explained: “We chose this expedition intuitively and did not choose the big names that people think we will give priority to. We are a team with common ideals, willing to share everything, or I can say this, Our team does not exaggerate personal capabilities."

This team consists of 8 people. In addition to them, there is also 27-year-old George Bil, a theoretical physicist at Cornell University who has pushed several times for his first trip to Peru. 28-year-old Bob Grigg, a philosopher who is a ski instructor in Aspen, has completed the first climb of Devild's Thumb in British Columbia. Grieg’s friend Di Molena, a 34-year-old landscape painter and geologist from Seattle, once ascended to St. Elias Mountain in Alaska. Pitt, a 26-year-old chemical engineer, successfully explored the Yukan River. Tony was a 27-year-old British army captain who, with a Norwegian expedition, boarded Pakistan's Tidrich Mir in 1951. The last is 27-year-old rock climber Giki from Iowa who has been involved in Alaska's glaciers.

At the end of May, they arrived in Pakistan and caught up with the news that Fujishiro Nerge and Edmund Hilary peaked at Mount Everest. They spent two months transporting the equipment to K2 base camp. But in early August, they were stopped by a severe snowstorm when they climbed about 7,625 meters above the Abruzzi ridge. 9天后，队员们终于可以爬出帐篷，查雷吉基豪斯顿出来时，面朝下跌倒了，失去了知觉。豪斯顿为他做了检查，发现他得了血栓静脉炎，腿部静脉的血液形成了凝块，如果这些凝块破裂并流至肺部，会引起肺部栓塞。在海拔7625米高度。情况非常危险，这实际上意味着被判死刑。

“没希望了，” 豪斯顿回忆说，“我们当然不会把他一个人留在那里，我们从来没这样想过。”

所有登上顶峰的念头都被抛在脑后。最后他们想沿登山的原路将吉基送下山去，但他们意识到整座斜坡可能会发生雪崩，因此放弃了这个方案。和格里格和皮特打算沿着东南岩石密布的山脊将吉基送下去。豪斯顿建议其他队员下山，他和吉基呆在一起，如果天气好转，他们再返回山下。但最终队员们没有做任何选择。那天晚上，豪斯顿检查出两块血凝块已进入吉基的肺部。第二天，暴风雪依旧肆虐，他们用一顶帐篷把吉基层层包裹起来，如同木乃伊，他们竭尽全力设计出当时环境中的最佳护送方式。

下午2点左右，他们将受伤的队员缓慢移动到不足137米高的一块冰封的突出的扁平岩石上，为了到达这里，他们不得不将吉基拉过一条陡峭的峡谷，在这条峡谷下方，冰几乎覆盖了所有通往冰河的道路。皮特在吉基上方，将自己固定在一条斜坡上，他用破冰斧砸开岩石表面的积雪里，然后用绳子挽牢吉基，系着吉基的绳子绕在皮特破冰斧的柄上，绳子从背后绕过吉基臀部，穿过他的右手。

他们计划将吉基摆过那条峡谷。行动之前，格里格差点被卷进几分钟前的一场小型雪崩中，他解开了和莫勒纳连接的绳子，攀到那块岩石上稍作休息。莫勒纳则始终防备着，努力使自己通过一条松松的绳索保持与吉基的连接。

在莫勒纳与吉基连成一体的几分钟后，同样站在吉基上方的乔治失去了平衡，从斜坡上滑了下去。摔倒时他抓了托尼的脚一下，托尼跌下去的同时，直接牵动了连着豪斯顿和鲍勃的绳子，把他们从原来的位置上拉开了。没有任何东西可以阻止这四个连在一起的人的下滑——除了那条连着莫勒纳与吉基的绳子，托尼在下滑的时候迅速抓住了它。莫勒纳滑下去了，现在五个人急速下滑直到拉紧了吉基——吉基和皮特之间有一条单独的绳子连接着。

皮特把破冰斧斜砸进冰层支撑因为他们的下滑而带来的冲击，绳子变细了，像钢丝一样被拉得紧紧的。因为接下来五分钟，他要保证6个人不从山脊上滑下去。这在任何一个地方都是异常困难的，但是在那样一个人们几乎无法思考的海拔高度，这可以说是不可思议的。此举被称为登山史上最具传奇色彩的用破冰斧挽住绳索的范例。“如果皮特没有抓住斧柄，那大概就只有鲍勃可以幸存了。” 莫勒纳说。

当他们到达一个落脚点时，乔治正躺在一个危险的接近陡坡的地方，莫勒纳的大腿受伤流血了，豪斯顿蜷缩着躺在深渊的边上，已经失去了知觉。其余的队员努力使他们恢复过来，鲍勃独自来到豪斯顿身边，豪斯顿的眼睛已经睁开了。

“我们这是在哪里？” 豪斯顿问，“我们在这里做什么？”

很明显，受到重创的队伍无法把他们的领队拉上陡峭的山岩。为了尽最后一次努力使豪斯顿清醒过来，并让他明白自己必须做什么，鲍勃挽住了老朋友的肩膀， “如果你还想见到你的朵卡丝和帕妮（豪斯顿的妻子和女儿），你就马上从这儿站起来！” 豪斯顿挣扎着站了起来。

现在必须把伤员送到隐蔽而安全的地方。吉基由那两把斧子支撑着，安全地停留在峡谷中，其他队员转移到一片布满岩石的肋拱形山坡的另一边，在那里搭起了帐篷。豪斯顿、乔治、皮特和莫勒纳被挪到了里面，其余三个人返回峡谷去找吉基。当他们到达时，破冰斧不见了，吉基也失踪了，看起来像是一场雪崩冲进这条峡谷带走了他。鲍勃后来描述说：“就像是上帝之手带走了他。”

经过了一个恐怖之夜，第二天早上，队员们发现他们正沿着一条缠结着被撕裂的绳子和破碎的睡袋的路向下爬着。豪斯顿首先认出了绳子：“很显然，我们正在沿着吉基被卷走的路线向下爬，我们正在沿着吉基的血前进，”他回忆说，“血，到处都是血……我们很长很长时间没有说一句话。”

四天以后，七个幸存者在大本营碰面，他们无法相信自己活着，朋友却已长眠于雪山之中。每个人都有些震惊，有些发愣地站在那里，不愿相信这是真的。搬运器械的工人们在距离冰河61米高的一块石头上，选了一个醒目位置垒起了一座圆锥形的石碓献给吉基，直到今天，这个石碓仍然立在那里。

伟大的失败

在结束死亡之旅的那天下午，我爬到吉基的纪念碑那里，那儿有一大片赭色的岩石，现在，这片岩石被刻有悼文的盘子和长柄锅盖装饰着，那是献给长眠在这里的男女登山队员的。我看到一队巴基斯坦向导在下面，他们正在搬运1997年死于雪崩的六个日本籍登山者的尸体。像杜利?伍夫一样，他们的尸体最近被人从冰河中发现。向导们把尸体堆叠在一起，用塑料包裹好，然后在上面放上冰块保持低温。直到找到可以用于火葬的木料，他们才能够被运回大本营。凛冽的山风刮起来了，盘子和锅盖敲打着岩石，敲出令人忧伤而超脱俗世的调子。

在那一刻，将K2喻为屠宰场一点也不夸张——一个注定与死亡相联系的地带。几个月后，当我返回家乡第一次遇到查雷?豪斯顿博士，我才认识到K2还蕴涵其他一些韵味——一种展现在登山运动之外的别样魅力。

今年夏天是吉基遇难50周年纪念。2000年乔治去世之后，其余6位队友仍然召集联欢，正是在K2上的团结精神把他们又紧紧联系在一起。豪斯顿这位八月即将步入九十高龄的老人坚持说：“我们并不是什么英雄，我们所作的是一项不得不作的工作，我们不会去计算如果我们死了，将会有多少人被K2吞噬生命，因为我们相信自己会活着，这就是我为什么不肯接受人们称我们为英雄的原因，除此之外，我们并没有做过什么。”

他的理性态度令人钦佩，但他的这种态度却无法评判他与他的队员们的行为。事实上，吉基死亡的命运几乎是无法避免的，他们可以完全放弃对他的救助。他们的这种无私精神在他们自己眼中也许根本不值一提，更谈不上英雄行为，但从某种意义上更说明了没有什么比这更显英雄本色。

一位研究K2的史学家吉姆?卡伦说：“查雷和他的登山队回国后的第二年，意大利人终于胜利到达顶峰，但在所有登山队伍中，查雷的队伍是其中最优秀的一支，但不幸的是，世界已翻过了这一页。”

但1953年发生在K2上的这些令人难以置信的故事，现在已成为登山活动中的轶闻之一，在喜马拉雅山脉的攀登史上，没有比这更令人深思的了。

“这轶闻使我们明白K2远比珠峰更雄壮。这不仅仅是因为技术层面上的困难，也不仅因为K2呈现给攀登者们抒情诗般的幻境，而是通过豪斯顿和他的队员们的行动，K2向人们诉说一个更有意义的故事。“我钦佩那些1954年首次登上K2的意大利人，但我更加敬佩1953年没有登上峰顶的美国人，他们是高尚而伟大的人，他们是以一种你所能想象得到的最优雅的方式失败的，他们带给我们的是伴随我们一生的启示。” 吉姆?卡伦说。

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